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    8/2/2006

    徽记(二)

    7.12
      认识宏村是从南湖开始的。先是小桥,接着是桥下的荷花,然后是桥与荷花的倒影,后来对岸的灰瓦白墙加了进来,最后蓝天和绿柳填充了前景与背景,风吹柳动涟漪起,小桥屋舍水中挂,于是宏村被勾勒出来。人与自然共同营造的美,莫过于此吧!上善若水。
      宏村的另一精华在月沼,牛胃形的清潭把所有的屋舍都化成双,广角相机拍成的图片传递的是一种震撼,而置身其间,满目尽是祥和。宏村人将水用到了极至,环立的群屋中添一面镜子,每个宏村人便同时拥有了两个世界。
      月沼边有幢古宅,名曰冒华居。曾经的荣华半着老人自豪的口吻从楹联洋钟洋镜上散出,显得有些无奈。抚今与追昔同样可以感受幸福,正如朴实与华丽都可以透出美丽。
      卢村本是一个插曲,然而当看到跨入门中的人们突然僵住的时候,插曲也不觉变得雄浑起来。跨过门槛的一刻,引子结束了,20个工匠历时14年的杰作在四面八方的木板上跳跃着,然后跃出来,在空中飞舞。我也同前面的无数人一样,定在了入门的一霎那,只有空气中的音符在飘荡。黄山归来不看岳,卢村归来哂木雕。
      西递是我来徽州之前最向往的地方,不为别的,就为上趟走马楼,感受一下“春风得意马蹄疾”的潇洒。凭着这个念头,我本能地觉得西递要比其它村落大气。果不其然,街道并不宽多少,整体却十分开阔。走进茶铺,品一杯黄山野茶,清苦,回甜,舔唇,苦也可以回味无穷。找到走马楼的时候已是下班之后,然而在楼下望望周遭,并无半点豪气,有的只是野茶般的平淡,在这样的气氛下,先前的妄念便被小溪带走了,被我带走的只有身上的一两野茶而已。
      但愿没有对错吧,嗯,应该没有。

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